Grilling Filipino Style: Charcoal Tips, Marinades, and Ihaw Secrets
Smoke, Skewers, and the Sweet Smell of Street-Side Charcoal
The Smoke That Draws a Crowd
Walk through any Filipino neighborhood in the late afternoon and you'll smell it before you see it. Charcoal smoke drifting over fences, the sizzle of marinated meat hitting hot grates, a neighbor fanning coals with a piece of cardboard. Ihaw-ihaw (grilling) isn't just a cooking method in the Philippines. It's a social event, a Saturday ritual, and for thousands of street vendors, a livelihood.
Filipino grilling has a character all its own. The marinades lean sweet and tangy. The heat source is almost always charcoal, never gas. Skewers get loaded with everything from chicken intestines to banana cue. And the basting - that constant, loving brush of marinade over open flame - turns simple meat into something that stops people on the sidewalk.
My husband used to grill every Sunday afternoon. Nothing fancy, just a pile of uling (charcoal) in a repurposed oil drum and whatever protein was on sale that week. But the smell would bring the whole compound to our yard. By 6pm we'd be feeding ten people when we only planned for four. That's the magic of Filipino grilling.
Why Charcoal Over Gas?
Gas grills are convenient, but Filipino grilling tradition is built around charcoal for good reason. According to Serious Eats' analysis of charcoal vs. gas grilling, charcoal burns hotter and produces smoke compounds that contribute genuine flavor to meat. The uneven heat of charcoal also creates those signature charred spots that Filipino barbecue is known for. Gas gives you control; charcoal gives you character.
Setting Up Your Charcoal Grill
Choosing the Right Charcoal
Not all uling is the same. In the Philippines, coconut shell charcoal (uling ng niyog) is preferred by serious grillers. It burns hotter, longer, and cleaner than wood charcoal. The heat is more consistent too, which matters when you're grilling skewers that cook in minutes.
If you're overseas, lump hardwood charcoal is the closest equivalent. Avoid briquettes with lighter fluid additives - they leave a chemical taste that no amount of marinade can mask. If you must use briquettes, let them ash over completely (covered in white-gray ash) before putting any food near them.
Building the Fire
The biggest mistake beginner grillers make is starting to cook too early. Charcoal needs 20-25 minutes to reach proper cooking temperature. Here's the process:
- Pile charcoal in a pyramid in the center of your grill. The pyramid shape promotes airflow and helps the coals light evenly.
- Light from the bottom. Use a chimney starter if you have one. Otherwise, crumpled newspaper or a few fire starters work. Never use gasoline. Ever.
- Wait for white ash. The coals should be 70-80% covered in gray-white ash before you spread them. This means they're fully lit and at peak temperature.
- Spread the coals. For direct grilling (skewers, thin cuts), spread evenly. For thicker pieces, push coals to one side for a hot zone and a cooler zone.
Temperature Control
Charcoal doesn't have a dial, but you can still control the heat. Air equals heat. More airflow means hotter coals. Here's how Filipino street vendors manage temperature without any fancy equipment:
- Fan the coals with cardboard to increase heat for searing
- Spread coals apart to reduce heat when flare-ups happen
- Raise the grate height for gentler, indirect heat
- Sprinkle water lightly to knock down flare-ups (a spray bottle works great)
- Open vents for more heat, close them partially to cool things down
The Hand Test for Temperature
Hold your hand 6 inches above the grate. Count how long you can keep it there before pulling away:
- 2 seconds: High heat (500F+) - for searing, isaw
- 4 seconds: Medium-high (400-450F) - for most Filipino BBQ
- 6 seconds: Medium (350-400F) - for chicken inasal, thicker cuts
- 8+ seconds: Low (300F) - for slow-cooking whole chicken or ribs
Essential Filipino Marinades
Filipino marinades share a common DNA: something sweet, something sour, something salty, and lots of garlic. But each regional style has its own signature balance. Here are the marinades that cover 90% of Filipino grilling.
Classic Filipino BBQ Marinade
This is the sweet, sticky marinade that street-style pork BBQ skewers are famous for. The banana ketchup gives it that distinctive reddish-brown color and fruity sweetness.
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup soy sauce
- 1/4 cup banana ketchup
- 3 tbsp brown sugar
- 1/4 cup calamansi juice (about 10-12 fruits)
- 6 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 1 lemon-lime soda (7-Up or Sprite) - 1/2 cup
The soda isn't a gimmick. Its acidity and sugar content tenderize the meat while adding a subtle sweetness. Many Filipino BBQ vendors consider it their secret weapon.
Marinate pork slices for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Thread onto bamboo skewers and grill over medium-high heat, basting with reserved marinade every few minutes.
Inasal Marinade (Bacolod Style)
The marinade behind chicken inasal is distinctly different from regular BBQ. It uses annatto oil for color, lemongrass for fragrance, and a generous amount of calamansi for brightness. Bacolod City, where inasal originated, takes this marinade very seriously.
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup calamansi juice
- 3 tbsp annatto (achuete) oil
- 3 stalks lemongrass, bruised and chopped
- 1 thumb ginger, sliced
- 6 cloves garlic, crushed
- 3 tbsp soy sauce
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp black pepper
To make annatto oil: heat 1/4 cup cooking oil with 2 tbsp annatto seeds over low heat until the oil turns deep orange-red. Strain out the seeds. The oil is ready.
Marinate chicken pieces for 6-12 hours. Grill over medium heat, basting frequently with the annatto oil mixture. The chicken should develop a gorgeous orange-red exterior with slightly charred edges. According to Wikipedia's entry on chicken inasal, authentic Bacolod-style inasal is basted continuously during grilling, which keeps the meat incredibly moist.
Inihaw na Liempo Marinade
Grilled pork belly (inihaw na liempo) needs a marinade that can stand up to all that rich fat. This version uses vinegar and citrus to cut through the richness, with garlic and pepper for warmth.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup soy sauce
- 1/4 cup calamansi juice
- 2 tbsp cane vinegar
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 small onion, grated
- 1 tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tsp coarse black pepper
- 2 bay leaves, crushed
Score the pork belly skin with shallow cuts in a crosshatch pattern before marinating. This helps the marinade penetrate deeper and creates crispy edges during grilling.
Marinate liempo for at least 3 hours. Grill over medium-high heat, fat side down first, until the fat renders and the skin crisps. Flip and finish cooking the meat side. Slice thin and serve with toyomansi or spiced vinegar.
Filipino BBQ Sauce (Basting Glaze)
Beyond the marinade, Filipino barbecue gets its glossy finish from a basting sauce applied during the last few minutes of grilling. This is what makes street BBQ look so irresistible.
Quick Basting Glaze
- 1/4 cup banana ketchup
- 2 tbsp soy sauce
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tbsp oil
- 1 clove garlic, minced
Warm everything together until the sugar dissolves. Brush on during the last 3-4 minutes of grilling. The sugar caramelizes fast, so keep the meat moving to prevent burning.
Skewer Preparation and Street-Style Techniques
Bamboo Skewer Prep
Bamboo skewers catch fire on the grill if you don't prepare them. The fix is simple: soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before threading. An hour is better. The waterlogged bamboo resists burning and gives you more time before the exposed ends start charring.
Some vendors wrap the exposed skewer tips in foil. Others leave a longer handle section that stays off the grill entirely. Both approaches work. The key is keeping the bamboo wet where it meets the hottest part of the grate.
Threading Meat on Skewers
How you thread meat affects how evenly it cooks. Street vendors have this down to an art:
- Pork BBQ: Slice meat thin (1/4 inch), thread in a weaving S-pattern. This exposes maximum surface area to the heat and creates those caramelized edges.
- Chicken: Cut into 1-inch chunks. Thread snugly but not too tight - air needs to circulate between pieces for even cooking.
- Isaw (intestines): Cleaned intestines get threaded in a figure-8 pattern on the skewer. This keeps them compact and ensures they cook through.
- Liempo: Cut into rectangular strips, thread once through the center. The flat shape gives maximum grill contact.
The Basting Rhythm
Filipino grilling is an active process. You don't just throw meat on the grill and walk away. Street vendors baste their skewers constantly - every 2-3 minutes - turning and brushing in a continuous rhythm. This builds layers of flavor and keeps the meat moist even over high heat.
Use a brush made from lemongrass stalks for extra fragrance. Tie several stalks together at one end to create a natural basting brush. Every stroke adds a whisper of citrus to the meat.
Grilling Timetable for Common Filipino Meats
These times assume medium-high charcoal heat (about 400-450F at grate level). Adjust for your specific setup.
When Is It Done?
A meat thermometer removes the guesswork, but most Filipino grillers rely on visual and tactile cues. Pork should show no pink when sliced. Chicken juices should run clear. Fish flakes easily with a fork when cooked through. Liempo fat should be rendered and translucent, not white and raw-looking.
Handling Flare-Ups and Common Problems
Fat dripping onto coals causes flare-ups - sudden bursts of flame that char the outside of meat before the inside cooks through. They're unavoidable with fatty Filipino favorites like liempo and chicken thighs, but manageable with the right approach.
- Move meat away from flare-ups rather than trying to extinguish them. Shift skewers to a cooler zone until the flame dies.
- Keep a spray bottle handy. A quick spritz of water tames flare-ups without killing the coals. Don't drench the fire - short, targeted sprays only.
- Trim excess fat before grilling. A little fat is essential for flavor, but thick chunks of hanging fat are flare-up fuel. Leave a thin layer on liempo but trim any dangling pieces.
- Don't overcrowd the grill. Tight spacing traps heat and fat, making flare-ups worse. Leave an inch between skewers. Keep one section of the grill empty as a "safe zone" to move meat when flames get aggressive.
Slightly charred edges are a feature of Filipino barbecue, not a flaw. That bittersweet carbon crust is part of the appeal. But there's a difference between appetizing char and burnt meat. If the outside is blackening before the inside cooks, your coals are too hot. Spread them out or raise your grate.
Beyond Meat: Grilled Filipino Sides
A proper ihaw-ihaw spread isn't complete with just meat. These grilled sides round out the table:
- Inihaw na talong (grilled eggplant): Grill whole until the skin blackens and the inside turns creamy. Peel, chop, and dress with vinegar, garlic, and onion for an ensaladang talong.
- Grilled corn: Brush with butter and sprinkle with salt while rotating over coals. Some vendors add cheese powder or margarine for extra richness.
- Grilled banana (saging na saba): Thread small cooking bananas on skewers and grill until the skin caramelizes. Brush with margarine and sugar for banana cue flavor without the oil.
- Inihaw na pusit (grilled squid): Stuff whole squid with tomato, onion, and garlic. Grill quickly over high heat - 2-3 minutes per side maximum. Overcooking makes squid rubbery.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a gas grill for Filipino BBQ?
You can, and the meat will still taste good. But you'll miss the smoky depth that charcoal provides. If gas is your only option, add soaked wood chips in a smoker box to get some smoke flavor. Mesquite or hickory work well with Filipino-style marinades. Set one burner to high for searing and another to medium for finishing.
How do street vendors keep meat so moist on the grill?
Three techniques: constant basting, not overcooking, and marinating long enough. Street vendors baste every few minutes, which builds a glaze that seals in moisture. They also pull meat right when it's done - not five minutes later while they chat with a customer. And their marinades often include some oil and sugar, both of which help meat retain moisture under high heat.
What's the best way to reheat grilled Filipino BBQ?
Quick pan sear or a few minutes under a hot broiler. The microwave makes grilled meat rubbery and kills the charred exterior. If you have leftover skewers, pop them on a sheet pan under the broiler for 2-3 minutes per side. The high, direct heat reactivates the caramelized sugars and crisps the surface back up.
How do I prevent bamboo skewers from burning?
Soak in water for at least 30 minutes. Some cooks soak overnight. You can also wrap the exposed ends in small strips of aluminum foil. Or use metal skewers if you plan to grill frequently. They're reusable, don't burn, and conduct heat into the center of the meat for more even cooking.